Dirty carpets in your car are not only unsightly, but unsanitary.
Since most people don’t take off their shoes when getting into a car, the carpet can get dirty very quickly. With all that dirt getting trapped in the fibers of your car’s carpet and it being in an enclosed space, it can not only be unsightly, but unsanitary. You’ll pay quite a bit of money to have someone clean your car, but there’s no need to do that if you have time to do it yourself.
Getting Ready
Remove trash, floor mats and anything else that may hinder the cleaning process. Use a vacuum cleaner to remove loose dirt and debris. Be sure to clean under the seats.
Mix a cleaning solution of one gallon of warm water and a scoop of bleach free detergent. Add a cup of white vinegar to the solution to help eliminate carpet odors. Make sure that you have rubber gloves, a clean cloth or sponge, and clean dry towels.
Removing Stains
Mix a solution of white vinegar and water in equal parts in a spray bottle and add a couple of tablespoons of dish soap. This is one of the best and cheapest ways to eliminate stains. Spray the solution on an area and scrub it into the carpet with a clean cloth or sponge. Leave it for at least a half hour. Be sure to leave the windows down to help the carpet dry faster. Blot the area dry with a clean cloth to remove any residual cleaning solution.
For grease stains, sprinkle baby powder or cornstarch on the stain and leave it for two to three hours before vacuuming it. Clean the area with warm soapy water if there is any residual stain. A grease cutting dish soap mixed with hot water will render the best results.
Cleaning the Carpet
Scrub the carpet with a medium bristle brush or a clean cloth or sponge, being careful not to saturate it. Use the brush on particularly difficult areas and don’t forget to clean under the seats. “Rinse” the carpet with a clean cloth or sponge and use clean water to remove any residual soap. Press dry towels to the carpet and lift them to help absorb excess moisture. To avoid mold, leave the windows down to help the carpets dry and avoid setting anything, such as floor mats, on the carpet until it is completely dry.
Women have come a long way in the world. The facts are, women have become a dominant force in business, automotive purchases, and business travel.
Women purchase more than 50% of all new vehicles, 48% of all used vehicles, influence 80% of all sales, comprise 40% of all business travelers, influence 80% of all luxury and family travel, own 38% of all US businesses contributing $1.6 trillion to the national economy and have now reached 59% of all Internet users.
They also comprise 40% of all business travelers today, up 5000% since 1970.
Despite male attempts to limit or prohibit female drivers in the late 1920′s and early 30′s, famous women motorists like writers Emily Post and Edith Wharton, and women’s automobile contributions during the World War I years were the most notable indicators of the existence of a core of urban and suburban women for whom driving was useful, necessary, or adventurous in the early years of the twentieth century.
American women learned early on, the possibilities of the automobile from the publicity offered by newspaper coverage of the pioneering transcontinental car journeys that took place between 1899 and 1908. They may not have been in the majority in terms of drivers when the first cars became available to Americans, but they surely existed.
Since then, women have become not only more independent and in charge of their own careers and finances, they have become the prime decision makers. Let’s face it, men, women hold the keys to the driver’s side. When it comes to deciding on your next automobile, where you will purchase it, or especially where you will take it for routine maintenance, just leave it to the ladies. And if you live in Wilmington, you know Atlantic Car Care is the most trusting, honest and reliable. Contact us today with any questions or concerns!
21 New Bern Street
Wilmington, North Carolina 28403
910-794-1390
Vehicles today really don’t require the attention they once did. In fact, these days all you have to do is listen to your mechanic since he most likely will let you know when to take care of what needs to be taken care of.
Yet, with the simplicity that has been set in place due to auto-reminders and routine maintenance schedules, we still don’t seem to follow the habits we easily could be. The people with the craziest schedules (the ones who drive their cars more every day) seem to have forgotten the importance of routine check ups, and the over-achievers spend too much time trying to get oil changes sooner than they really need.
Although maintenance intervals are now more widely spaced, even the newest cars require scheduled service to live long, productive lives. Whether yours is the latest model or you paid it off years ago, the trick is giving your car the maintenance it was designed to receive.
Every car is supplied with a maintenance schedule — in the owner’s manual or in a separate maintenance log book — that details that vehicle’s needs. A few minutes assimilating these requirements will help you avoid the following common car-maintenance pitfalls. Or you can create your own schedule, whatever works best for you, the importance is just knowing it is needed and necessary.
1. Proper Tire Inflation and Rotation
Tires leak air naturally and need the occasional check. Under-inflated tires can actually slowly suck up gasoline. Under, or over-inflated tires wear out sooner, and deliver the same emergency maneuver handling as marshmallows. You probably aren’t going to check tire pressures monthly, but how about twice a year? That’s not a lot to ask.
Furthermore, front and rear tires wear differently and should be rotated to even that wear. Most user manuals or maintenance schedules will let you know when this should be done.
2. Windshield Wiper Replacement
It’s much easier to avoid hitting things you can see! Simple as it is, that’s the concept behind replacing your windshield wipers before they fossilize into noisy uselessness.
Fall is the ideal wiper replacement time: after the blade-baking summer and before the fall and winter nastiness. Depending on location, wiper replacement may only be an annual affair in the South, like in Wilmington.
3. Tune-Up Timing and Saving
There are no more “tune-ups.” Valves no longer need adjusting, ignition timing is computer controlled and there are no carburetors to fiddle with. About all that’s left of the old tune-up drill are the spark plugs. These are often good for 100,000 miles, so don’t change parts to change parts. Instead, save up for those big 60,000- and 120,000-mile services when the timing belt, spark plug wires and coolant are due for replacement.
4. Fuel (Octane Overdose)
Here the rule is to supply whatever octane the engine is rated for and call it done. Higher-than-required octane does not yield more power or mileage, only oil company profits. Some engines are rated for premium 91 octane fuel but can burn 87 octane regular, thanks to the magic of knock sensors. In that case, run regular gas if puttering around surface streets, and premium fuel if full-throttle driving is part of your daily repertoire.
5. Oil Change Timing
Oil changes every 3,000 miles used to be required jobs, just like cleaning the accumulated dust from the corners of the molding in your house. Today, advances in engine design and lubricants make oil changes something to be done when the schedule calls for it, not when your grandfather says it’s time. Some cars call for 5,000-mile change intervals, some up to 15,000-mile stints. Others have a variable timer. Follow the schedule and use the oil called for by the manufacturer.
6. Worn out Tires
Tires wear out. The tire industry says tires are toast after five years, but they’re selling tires. It all depends on heat, sunlight and ozone conditions. If you’re not sure how old your tires are, a tire shop can read the date code stamped into the sidewall. Or your you can wait until they’re down to bear rubber and your mechanic will give you more than enough warning that its time.
7. Dirty Air Filter
Semi-clogged air filters hurt fuel economy. The question is, when is your filter dirty? Under a Norman Rockwell schedule of, an air filter might not see much grit. But grimy city surface streets or driving daily on a dirt road are often enough to overwhelm air filters. This one is about conditions. If you go near dirt, the air filter may need changing twice as often as the schedule calls for. At Atlantic Car Care, they will show you how dirty your filter is and you will understand.
8. Don’t Forget Your Brakes
This one is fairly obvious, if you notice anything different about your brakes — sound, feel or response — they are telling you to visit your mechanic. Now.
9. Tighten Your Gas Cap
Is the Check Engine light on? Then make sure the gas cap is on tightly before calling the dealer. No joke, this is one of the most common ways of setting off your car’s diagnostic system, since a loose gas cap defeats the fuel system’s venting arrangement.
10. The Garage in Your Home
Your house is your most valuable investment. Your car is likely your second most valuable investment. If you’re paying all that money, then why are you storing empty cardboard boxes and old holiday wreaths in the garage? Pitch that junk and put your car in the garage!
At Atlantic Care, we pride ourselves on letting you know what needs to be done and when, so you don’t have to. But if you don’t understand the importance of routine maintenance for one of your most valuable investments, than you aren’t going to listen to us either. First, understand that it needs to be done, let us take care of the rest!
Contact us today with questions or comments!
Atlantic Car Care
21 New Bern St.
Wilmington, NC 28403
910-794-1390
www.atlanticcarcare.com
Here at Atlantic Car Care we really care about our customers. We make it convenient for you to have your vehicle serviced and repaired by providing courtesy rides (and in some cases a loaner car when needed). We have a focused training program designed to make sure that our technicians are the best in the industry. Having knowledgeable technicians saves you money because they know what they are doing and they know your car. We give you the best warranty in the industry at 2 years or 24,000 miles, which provides you with peace-of-mind. We can do this because we know our technicians are the best.
But most importantly, I will be here to make sure that everything is done correctly and when promised, and to make sure that all your questions are answered.
Is my car Worth Fixing?
This is a question that we’re asked to answer on the spot. The plain truth is that it’s not an easy question to answer. In order for us to help you make the right decision it maybe best for us to perform a complete evolution of you car. The most important thing that must be done is ask your self a few simple questions.
What are you planning on doing if its not worth fixing
How long do I need to make this car last
Can I afford a car payment
If I buy a use car is it going to last
Many of us in our industry have had the common taught that its not worth investing $3500 in a $3000 car. Lets take a look at some facts. Assuming you have a $4000 dollar budget, your still in the same boat. You maybe be in worst shape with the new car than repairing your old car. From year of experience and thousands of vehicle pre-purchase inspection, I can tell you that most cars in this price range sitting on a car lot, usually needs $1500 to $2000 in repairs and maintenance. So think about it way are you wanting another car, its not normal to get reed of a perfectly good automobile, so way trade your problem for someone Else’s problems. So the average of one of these beauties inherits a bill of that size when they take delivery. Now you spent 4 grand for the car and 2 grand in repairs shortly afterwards, so that’s 6 grand. If the $3000 car you currently own is structurally sound and can be fixed up for $3500, it’s $3500 a lot less than $6000 spent for another persons problem.
Lets also take a look at the findings in a consumer report (August 2000). This example shows a few things that may get over looked when making your auto buying decisions.
You know you need new tires, but you’re not sure what type. You look at a tire to get the size: 225, 50, R, 16, 92, H. All the way to the service center you keep repeating it over and over. You even say it over in your mind while waiting in line. Then you get to the counter and the manager asks what size you need. Then your mind goes blank.
Tire size can be confusing. There’s so much on the side of the tire, and it’s hard to keep straight.
Even though there’s a lot on a tire – if you know what it all means, it’s actually more helpful than confusing. Let’s start with the size number.
For example, let’s say a tire reads: 225 50 R 16 92 H. The 225 part is the width of the tire in millimeters – the width between the sidewalls of an inflated tire with no load. The 50 is the aspect ratio – the ratio of the sidewall height to the tread width. Off-road tires will have a higher number and high performance tires will have a lower number.
The R signifies it’s a radial tire. And 16 is the rim or wheel size in inches.
The 92 is the load rating index – it’s the load carrying capacity of a tire. The higher the number, the more it can safely carry. Your empty vehicle can be safe with a lower number, but you’ll need a higher rating if you routinely haul heavy loads. The next letter is the speed rating. Not all tires are speed rated. The ratings generally follow the alphabet: the further up the alphabet, the higher the speed rating – with the exception of H – it comes between U and V (don’t ask why).
There’s a lot of fine print that you probably need a magnifying glass to read. But there are a couple of other large print items of interest. One is the tread type: highway, mud and snow, all season, severe snow, etc.
And then there’re the Uniform Tire Quality Grading System markings. The first is a tread wear index. 100 is the base line – a lower number is poorer and a higher number is better. All things being equal, a tire rated 200 would wear twice as long, on a government test track, than one rated at 100. These wear grades are only valid within a manufacturer’s product line – you can’t compare with other manufacturers. And it’s important to note that a lower rating might be just what you want – a high performance, sticky tire has a softer rubber compound and won’t wear as long, but boy, will it take those corners.
The next is a traction grade. This measures the tire’s ability to stop on wet pavement in government tests. A – the best, B – intermediate, C – acceptable.
Temperature grade measures a tire’s resistance to heat build up in government tests. A, B and C – from best to acceptable.
It’s safe to go with the original equipment recommendations that came on your car. But if you want to make adjustments, you’ll now be better equipped to communicate with your tire professional.
Home Remedy to Clean Car Carpet
