Suspension systems function effectively for many years and tens of thousands of miles. Eventually, however, sedans suspension components do wear out, but how long that takes depends a lot on how you drive around Wilmington and Burgaw.
As you can imagine, if most of your driving is on smooth North Carolina highways, your shock absorbers will last a lot longer than if you do most of your driving on bumpy Wilmington roads or haul heavy loads. In addition to just wearing out, sedans suspension components can be damaged in an accident or by a hard impact – like a pothole, hitting a curb or a rock in the road. Because the life span of shocks can vary so widely, sedans auto manufacturers recommend periodic inspections. During an inspection at Atlantic Car Care in Wilmington, your Honest automotive service technician will check for worn, broken or missing parts.
Here’s a quick rundown of suspension system components:
First there are the springs which hold the weight of your sedans. There are several varieties of springs. Springs are obviously heavy duty parts that rarely break or wear out. Shock absorbers work in conjunction with springs to smooth out the ride and help keep the tires on the road. Good shocks are essential for handling performance and ride comfort.
You’ve probably heard of struts. They combine a shock absorber and a coil spring in one unit. Shocks and struts will wear out over time. If your tires develop a cupped wear pattern, your shocks or struts may be wearing out. This is from the shocks bouncing unevenly. You may notice a floaty or drifting sensation when cornering. If the front of your sedans dives excessively when stopping, or rocks back and forth after you’ve stopped, your shocks may be worn out. And if they are leaking fluid, it’s definitely time to replace them at Atlantic Car Care.
If you are experiencing any of these symptoms, visit Atlantic Car Care for a suspension inspection. Same if you’ve been in an accident that involved one of your wheels. If your sedans suspension actually fails, it could lead to a serious accident, so don’t put it off.
When you replace your shocks, it’s usually a good idea to replace all four at the same time. That’ll give you more even handling. Talk with your Atlantic Car Care technician because you don’t want a big difference between the performance of your shocks from wheel to wheel, and replacing all may be the safest bet.
There are different grades of shocks and struts. You always want to use a replacement shock or strut that equals the one that came as original equipment when your sedans was new. But remember, they were designed to meet the expected needs of the broad range of Burgaw people who buy that particular vehicle. Your needs may be more specialized.
For example, if you want increased handling performance, your Honest Atlantic Car Care advisor can recommend an upgraded shock or strut specially designed for improved handling. If you haul heavy loads or trailers, we can recommend some heavy duty shock absorbers.
Today we’re talking about shocks and struts. They’re so easy to forget about because they last so long and wear out so slowly. But your shocks are really responsible for keeping your tires on the road – so they’re very important.
Without shocks, your wheels would be bouncing over bumps and lifting in corners. The shocks push the tire down to the road to maximize traction. Good shocks equal good ride quality and safe handling.
Visit Atlantic Car Care to have your shocks and struts inspected by a professional. You can find us at 21 New Bern Street, Wilmington, North Carolina 28403 Or give us a call at 9107941390 to make an appointment.
There’s a difference between shocks and springs. Springs support the weight of the vehicle, keeping it suspended up off the axles. The shocks moderate the rebound motion as wheels hit bumps. Now a strut combines a shock and a coil spring in one compact unit.
When your shocks are worn out you may notice degraded handling as you drive around our Wilmington streets. Your vehicle feels squirmy around corners and floaty over bumps.
You may notice the rear end squatting when you accelerate or the front end diving when you brake. Your car might even be sagging at one corner.
Uneven tire wear can also be a sign of worn shocks. Of course, if your shocks are leaking or have a big dent, they need to be replaced.
Your owner’s manual will have a recommendation for when to replace the shocks and struts on your vehicle. It’s usually between thirty and fifty thousand miles. Of course, if you tow a lot, regularly carry heavy loads or do a lot of driving on poor roads, your shocks might wear out faster.
If those driving conditions apply to you, you can get special shocks that are better suited to your driving.
The shocks that come from the factory are designed for the way most consumers are expected to drive that particular vehicle. If you have different needs for your driving around Wilmington North Carolina, you can get premium shocks that improve performance handling, off-road abilities or towing comfort. Your Wilmington North Carolina service consultant at Atlantic Car Care can help you determine your needs and then give you some options.
It’s best to replace all four shocks at the same time. That way you’ll have even, predictable handling at all four corners. Anything less could be dangerous.
Suzuki auto repair requires complex knowledge and some very specialized equipment.
That is why our Suzuki car repair shop technicians are ASE certified and experts in the field. Our technicians have been factory training and we use the latest computer diagnostic equipment. This high level training and equipment is just one of the ways we ensure your complete satisfaction.
Wilmington N.C. Suzuki Auto Service
Here are some of the reasons to choose us:
Here at Atlantic Car Care we really care about our customers. We make it convenient for you to have your vehicle serviced and repaired by providing courtesy rides (and in some cases a loaner car when needed). We have a focused training program designed to make sure that our technicians are the best in the industry. Having knowledgeable technicians saves you money because they know what they are doing and they know your car. We give you the best warranty in the industry at 2 years or 24,000 miles, which provides you with peace-of-mind. We can do this because we know our technicians are the best.
But most importantly, I will be here to make sure that everything is done correctly and when promised, and to make sure that all your questions are answered.
If you’ve ever been in a car accident around Wilmington North Carolina, even a minor one, you know how upsetting it can be. It’s hard to think straight and know what to do.
Let’s review what you should do in case of an accident in Wilmington, North Carolina:
When an accident occurs, you should always stop. Leaving the scene of an accident is considered a crime in North Carolina – even if it’s not your fault. And hit-and-run penalties are fairly severe, possibly resulting in steep fines, loss of your driver’s license or even jail time in our local Wilmington lockup.
Most states, including North Carolina require that you try to help someone who is injured by calling for help or performing first aid if you are able.
Warn other Wilmington motorists by putting out flares, using your flashers or lifting your hood.
Call 911 as soon as possible. Tell the operator if medical or fire help is needed.
Always file a police report. It’s tempting to skip this if everything seems to be ok. But without a police report, the other guy can say whatever he wants about the accident later, and you won’t have an objective report to help defend yourself.
Discuss the accident only with the police. Emotions are strong after an accident and we naturally want to talk about it – don’t. Never admit fault or guilt to anyone including the police officer. Sometimes we may feel at fault, but in the eyes of North Carolina law, the other guy may be responsible.
Truthfully give the officer the facts: such as “I was going 35 miles per hour” not “I wasn’t speeding”. Remember, anything you say to the officer or anyone else can be used against you.
Also get the officer’s name and badge number and ask where you can get a copy of the accident report.
Get the facts on the driver and owner of the other vehicle:
Date of birth
Driver’s license number and expiration
Also take down a description of the other vehicle, license plate and vehicle identification number. Most insurance companies don’t record license plate numbers, so the VIN number is the best way to track the vehicle.
Ask witnesses, including passengers, to wait for the police. If they can’t wait, ask for contact information and request that they write a brief description of what they saw. If someone refuses to leave their name, write down their license plate number so the police can track them down later if necessary.
Always call your insurance agent or your North Carolina auto insurance company’s 800 number.
Call or see your local Wilmington physician if you think you may have been injured.
We here at Atlantic Car Care hope that you never have to use this information and wish you happy travels.
The outside of your car is sort of like the outside of you. If you want things to last and keep functioning right on the inside, its important to maintain the outside. You don’t just take care of your organs and vital inside body-parts, right? No, you make sure your skin is healthy, take the vitamins and minerals necessary to keep yourself healthy-looking on the outside and most importantly, we like to look good to others, right? Well, its the same for your car.
Tips for Washing Your Car’s Body By Deanna Sclar
Cleaning your car efficiently saves you time and effort and ensures that the vehicle’s body comes out looking great. If you clean haphazardly, the task takes much longer, and you run the risk of scratching the finish, streaking the surface, and leaving the body vulnerable to rust.
Most modern vehicles are painted in a two-step process that produces a clear-coat finish, which can far outlast the acrylic lacquer or enamel used on older vehicles. Although a clear-coat finish protects and enhances the paint, it’s sensitive to abrasion and chemicals. If it wears away, the paint beneath it will deteriorate rapidly.
To wash your car efficiently, follow these guidelines:
•Never wipe or dust the body with a dry cloth: The tiny particles of dust and grit on the surface can scratch the paint.
•Never wash a vehicle in the hot sun: The cool water causes the hot body to contract, which can crack the paint and ruin the finish.
•Be sure the windows and sunroof are closed before washing: Spray lightly around the edges of the windows, sunroof, and rear deck lid for a short time and then check to see if the weatherstripping leaks.
•Before you wash the car, hose it down to get rid of the surface dust: Then clean and polish such exterior surfaces as vinyl hardtops, convertible tops, glass windows and sunroofs, chrome bumpers and trim, side mirrors, wheel covers, whitewalls, and tires.
•Use cold or lukewarm water and a hose rather than a bucket of water to wet and rinse the car: A bucket holds a finite amount of water. As you rinse out your rag or sponge, the dirt is transferred to the water and back to the rag.
•Use a sponge, soft rag (old terrycloth towels, T-shirts, or cotton diapers are wonderful), or a cotton wash mit: Cotton swabs and an old toothbrush will help you get into small areas.
•To avoid cobwebby scratches, follow the contours of the surface rather than going in circles: Rinse the rag often to get rid of grease and dust particles. Be thorough but gentle; vigorous scrubbing can scratch and remove the paint.
•Use gentle cleansers: Use a commercial car-washing product, not laundry or dish soap or detergent, which can remove the wax and other protective finishes from the surface.
Use biodegradable cleaning products to minimize environmental pollution. Try to do the job on a grassy or graveled area where the water can be absorbed and filtered by the dirt below, or do your washing near a drain. Do not let the water run down the street and into a storm drain.
Every job goes more smoothly and efficiently if the work you do is organized properly. The following tips help you wash your vehicle in an order that will get you the best results:
•Always wash the body of a vehicle from the top down: That way soap scum and sludge don’t muck up freshly washed areas.
•Remember to get to all the corners where dirt can collect and rust can form: Don’t forget the underbody.
•Wash one section of the vehicle at a time: Hose it down, soap it up, and rinse it off. When you finish the entire vehicle, hose it all down again.
•Towel-dry the car with terry towels, cotton diapers, or a synthetic chamois to get rid of water spotting that can mar the surface: Chamois are good for this purpose and can be washed, rinsed, and used for years. But they’re more expensive.
•At regular intervals, apply a coat of wax or sealer: A high-quality polymer sealant provides the best protection because it binds with the paint.
How to Wax Your Vehicle By Deanna Sclar
Waxing a vehicle preserves that clean and shiny finish and seals its “pores” against dirt, water vapor, and rust. If water doesn’t bead on the surface of the vehicle when it rains or when you hose it down, it needs waxing. Even if you use a car-washing product that has wax in it, you must still give most vehicles a thorough waxing at least twice a year.
To avoid scratching the surface and trapping minute particles of dust, always be sure to wash the vehicle before you wax it, no matter how clean it looks. After applying wax or polymer sealant, use a terry cloth towel to break up the hazy surface by rubbing in one direction. Then switch to a soft, lint-free cloth (a cloth diaper works best) and rub in the other direction to bring out the shine.
If you drive a dark-colored vehicle or one with a clear-coat or sensitive lacquer finish, make sure that the cleaners and waxes you use have no abrasives in them. If you’re unsure as to whether the finish on your vehicle requires special handling, check your owner’s manual or call your dealership for instructions.
Unless your vehicle came with specific instructions from the manufacturer, you can choose from a variety of waxes. Here’s a closer look at your options:
•Liquid waxes: Generally speaking, liquid waxes are very easy to use but don’t last as long as soft or hard waxes. Liquid wax is excellent to replace the wax you lose if you wash your car with a wax-free detergent or soap, or for a touch-up between professional waxings.
•Soft waxes: Soft waxes are light and fluffy and are very easy to apply and remove. Some are mixed with a light cleaner, but be sure to wash the car thoroughly first anyway to remove particles that can scratch it. Apply soft wax with the applicator pads provided or with a soft terry cloth rag. Simply wipe on the wax, following the contours of the surface; allow it to dry to a haze; and wipe the haze away.
Because the waxes that contain cleaners usually contain abrasives, don’t use them for every car wash or more often than once a month. In between, use a liquid car cleanser that contains a little wax.
•Hard or paste waxes: These types of waxes provide the most protection and should be used for your semi-annual major wax job. Always do a small area at a time to avoid letting the wax harden to a point where it’s hard to remove. Apply the wax according to the directions on the can with an applicator or soft, lint-free rag.
•Polymer preservatives: Products that contain polymer substances claim to protect a vehicle more effectively than wax and for longer periods of time. They bond with the surface and prevent it from fading and oxidizing. At the auto supply store, you can buy poly-sealants that are easy to apply and are supposed to protect your vehicle for six months to a year.
•Polyglycotes: Professionals and auto manufacturers offer silicon-based polyglycotes that are supposed to last from two to five years, but the jury’s still out on whether they can live up to their promises; most have to be freshened and buffed periodically to maintain the shine, which isn’t much different than waxing. If you still want to use one of these products, wash the vehicle thoroughly and give it a good cleaning and polishing first. When the surface is really clean, shiny, and dry, apply the protective coating, following the directions on the label.
Description: Brake fluid is a specially formulated liquid used in the brake hydraulic system. Brake fluid must meet one of three specifications. Most cars use DOT 3 fluid from the factory.
Purpose: Since liquids can’t be compressed, brake fluid transmits force to various parts of the braking system when you step on the brake pedal. Brake fluid must also have a high boiling point because of the heat generated during braking and must not freeze during cold temperatures. DOT 3 and DOT 4 fluids also attract small amounts of water that may collect in the brake system.
Maintenance Tips/Suggestions: Check the brake fluid level in the master cylinder reservoir regularly, ideally at every oil change. Most cars use semi-transparent reservoirs that have level markings to make fluid monitoring easy. If you need to add fluid, use only the type of fluid recommended in your car’s owner’s manual. Do not leave the cover off the master cylinder any longer than necessary; DOT 3 and DOT 4 brake fluids attract water. Use extreme care when handling DOT 3 and DOT 4 fluid as it quickly destroys paint if spilled.
On cars with disc brakes, it’s normal for the fluid level to gradually drop as the brakes wear. This fluid fills up the space left by the disc brake caliper pistons as they move outward with brake wear. However, if you find that brake fluid needs to be added frequently, there may be a leak in the hydraulic system. Have the system inspected as soon as possible by a qualified service technician. Your owner’s manual may specify periodic flushing and filling of the brake hydraulic system, which should not be overlooked. This is a service best left to professional technicians, as many cars with ABS have specialized brake-bleeding procedures. Braking systems with ABS can also generate extremely high hydraulic pressures, which can be dangerous.
Description: Historically, pads and shoes contained a lining material made of asbestos or asbestos compounds. Today’s friction lining may contain semi-metallic compounds, non-asbestos organic compounds, and ceramics, among others.
Purpose: Pads and shoes are the wearable friction elements of the braking system. When installed properly, they should provide reliable and quiet braking for many miles.
Maintenance Tips/Suggestions: Have your car’s brakes inspected annually to make sure everything’s OK. It’s always best to be able to plan ahead for brake work by knowing brake condition as your car ages. Brakes are a normal wear item for any car, so sooner or later they’re going to need replacement. Planning can also save you money, because the brakes won’t get to the “metal-to-metal” point, which usually means expensive rotor or drum replacement. Symptoms of brake problems may include dragging brakes, squealing brakes, a pulsating brake pedal (with ABS not functioning), grinding brakes, a low brake pedal or pulling when braking. If your car exhibits any of these symptoms, have it checked out by a qualified technician as soon as possible.
Description: Brake hardware generally refers to the supporting hardware for disc and drum brakes. Hardware related to disc brakes usually includes anti-rattle springs, pad-retaining springs, silencing shims, caliper pins, support keys, return springs, and retaining screws. Typical drum brake hardware includes return springs, hold-down springs, tension springs and star wheel adjuster. It’s important to note that the exact hardware configuration and names of the hardware vary considerably with different makes and models of cars.
Purpose: Brake hardware is used to retain brake parts in certain locations and can also be used to return parts to certain positions when hydraulic pressure is released. Certain types of brake hardware are also used to silence disc brakes.
Maintenance Tips/Suggestions: Symptoms of brake hardware problems may include dragging brakes, squealing while braking, grinding brakes, a low brake pedal or pulling when braking. If your car exhibits any of these symptoms, have it checked out by a qualified technician as soon as possible. When your car is due for brake service, ask if the brake hardware will be replaced. Having the hardware replaced during brake service is the best investment you can make to ensure safe braking and longest life from your new brakes.
Description: Located on the driver’s side of the car towards the back of the engine compartment, the vacuum-operated brake booster is the heart of a “power brake” system. The master cylinder mounts to the front of the brake booster.
Purpose: The brake booster uses the differential of engine vacuum (negative pressure) and atmospheric pressure (positive pressure) to multiply force from the driver’s leg. This applies increased force to the pushrod of the master cylinder, generating more pressure from the master cylinder than from use of the driver’s leg alone.
Maintenance Tips/Suggestions: Brake boosters are generally very reliable and require no maintenance. Symptoms of brake booster problems include excessive brake pedal effort, a rough running engine, excessive idle speed, or a whooshing or hissing noise.
Description: The brake hydraulic system consists of the master cylinder, disc brake calipers (disc brakes), wheel cylinders (drum brakes), hydraulic lines and hoses, and combination/proportioning valve. When you push on the brake pedal, the force of your leg generates hydraulic pressure in the master cylinder, which then flows through the hydraulic lines and hoses to the wheel cylinders and calipers. The hydraulic force applies pressure through the wheel cylinders and calipers, forcing the shoes against the drums (drum brakes) and the pads against the rotors (disc brakes).
In the early 1960s, cars began using split hydraulic systems and tandem master cylinders. Essentially, this divided the hydraulic system into two separate systems (front and back), ensuring proper hydraulic and braking on one side of the system, if a leak developed on the other side.
In the 1980s, some carmakers began to use diagonally split systems, which took safety a step further. Instead of splitting the system into front and rear, the system was now hydraulically divided into left-rear/right-front and right-rear/left-front. By maintaining one front and one rear brake, the result is more balanced braking when the system develops a leak. By law, all of today’s cars are required to use some type of hydraulically split system.
Purpose: The hydraulic system transmits and multiples force as needed to provide braking action throughout the brake system.
Maintenance Tips/Suggestions: Check the brake fluid level in the master cylinder reservoir regularly, ideally at every oil change. Most cars use semi-transparent reservoirs that have level markings to make fluid monitoring easy. If you need to add fluid, use only the type of fluid recommended in your car’s owner’s manual. Do not leave the cover off the master cylinder any longer than necessary; DOT 3 and DOT 4 brake fluids attract water. Use extreme care when handling DOT 3 and DOT 4 fluid as it quickly destroys paint if spilled. On cars with disc brakes, it’s normal for the fluid level to gradually drop as the brakes wear. This fluid fills up the space left by the disc brake caliper pistons as they move outward with brake wear.
However, if you find that brake fluid needs to be added frequently, there may be a leak in the hydraulic system. Have the system inspected as soon as possible by a qualified service technician. Your owner’s manual may specify periodic flushing and filling of the brake hydraulic system, which should not be overlooked.
This is a service best left to professional technicians, as many cars with ABS have specialized brake-bleeding procedures. Braking systems with ABS can also generate extremely high hydraulic pressures, which can be dangerous. Once again, consult a professional service technician if your car needs ABS or hydraulic system service.
Description: Brake drums and rotors are the spinning members of the braking system that come in contact with the lining material from the brake shoes and pads. Drums are usually made of cast iron and rotors may be made of cast iron, or a composite of cast iron and a stamped steel center section.
Purpose: Drums and rotors provide the mating surface for brake shoes and pads. Because of the heat generated from all the friction, a drum or rotor must be able to remain stable even when subjected to the temperatures of repeated braking.
Maintenance Tips/Suggestions: Have your car’s brakes inspected annually to make sure everything’s OK. It’s always best to be able to plan ahead for brake work by knowing brake condition as your car ages. Brakes are a normal wear item for any car, so sooner or later they’re going to need replacement. Planning can also save you money, because the brakes won’t get to the “metal-to-metal” point, which usually means expensive rotor or drum replacement. Symptoms of brake problems may include dragging brakes, squealing brakes, a pulsating brake pedal (with ABS not functioning), grinding brakes, a low brake pedal or pulling when braking.
Hydraulic Braking Light
Description: Located on the instrument panel, this warning light is usually red and labeled BRAKE. The light glows with the ignition switch in the on position.
Purpose: The hydraulic warning light glows when there is a loss of pressure detected in the hydraulic system. On some cars, this light may be used to alert the driver that the brake fluid level is low.
Maintenance Tips/Suggestions: If your car’s BRAKE warning light comes on, check your owner’s manual to find out its meaning. Unlike some warning lights, the BRAKE warning light does not have standard meanings; it may be also be used for multiple purposes. For example, the same light may be used to show that the parking brake is engaged and when the fluid in the master cylinder is low. When in doubt, have the condition checked by a qualified service technician right away. A loss of hydraulic pressure can affect brake operation, which can make your car unsafe.
Parking Brake Warning Light
Description: Located on the instrument panel, this warning light is usually red and labeled BRAKE. The light glows with the ignition switch in the on position.
Purpose: The parking brake warning light notifies the driver that the parking brake is engaged. This reduces the chances of driving off with the parking rake engaged, causing premature wear of the rear brakes.
Maintenance Tips/Suggestions: Use your parking brake regularly. Not using the parking brake for a long period of time and then activating it may cause cables and other parts to seize because of corrosion. If the BRAKE light stays on after you’ve released the parking brake, it may indicate a hydraulic system problem because the same light may be used for multiple purposes. There’s also the possibility that the parking brake cable or switch may be sticking or is out of adjustment. Consult a professional technician to isolate the cause.
Description: Today, virtually all cars come with ABS as standard equipment or as an option. The typical ABS system includes wheel-speed sensors, a hydraulic control unit, and an electronic control unit. When you apply the brake pedal, the electronic control unit monitors and compares the signals from the wheel-speed sensors. If the electronic control unit senses rapid deceleration (impending lock-up) at a given wheel, the electronic control unit commands the hydraulic control unit to reduce hydraulic pressure to that wheel. This type of pressure limiting is similar to pumping the brake pedal, only much faster. Some pick-up trucks and cargo vans have rear-wheel only ABS to handle different braking needs under different loading conditions. This type of ABS system controls only the rear wheels and limits pressure to both of them when either is about to lock.
Purpose: ABS was designed to help you maintain directional control during emergency stops and when road conditions are poor. By maintaining control, you have better chances of avoiding a crash. ABS is especially useful on wet and slippery roads. You should never pump the brake pedal on a car with ABS, since the system itself “pumps” the brakes automatically. All you need to do is apply firm and continuous pressure to the brake pedal to activate ABS operation. When the ABS system operates, you may feel a pulsating sensation from the brake pedal. When ABS operation is no longer needed, the braking system reverts to conventional hydraulic operation without intervention from the ABS system.
Maintenance Tips/Suggestions: When turning the ignition switch to the on position, the amber BRAKE, ANTILOCK or ABS light on the instrument panel should glow momentarily, and then turn off. If the light stays on or flashes, or comes on while driving, it indicates a fault in the ABS system. Have your car’s ABS system inspected immediately by a professional technician to determine the source of the problem. Your owner’s manual may specify periodic flushing and filling of the brake hydraulic system, which should not be overlooked. This is a service best left to professional technicians, as many cars with ABS have specialized brake-bleeding procedures. Braking systems with ABS can also generate extremely high hydraulic pressures, which can be dangerous.
Anti-Lock Brake System Light
Description: Located on the instrument panel, this warning light may be labeled BRAKE, ANTILOCK or ABS.
Purpose: The ABS warning light alerts you to problems in the ABS system.
Maintenance Tips/Suggestions: When turning the ignition switch to the on position, the amber BRAKE, ANTILOCK or ABS light on the instrument panel should glow momentarily, and then turn off. If the light stays on or flashes, or comes on while driving, it indicates a fault in the ABS system. In most vehicles, if this light is on, the ABS system will be automatically disabled until a repair is made. Have your car’s ABS system inspected immediately by a professional technician to determine the source of the problem.
With no end in sight to high gas prices, consumers should take control of how they drive their vehicle to get more miles per gallon. The Car Care Council, an automotive consumer education group, recommends the following ways to drive smart and save money.
Combine errands in one trip and get good directions before you head out to minimize driving unnecessary miles.
Lighten the load by getting stuff out of the car, including the trunk, with the exception of important emergency items such as a spare tire, flares, and a first-aid kit. Unnecessary items weigh the vehicle down, causing an increase in gas usage.
Stay within the speed limit and use cruise control, when appropriate. Gas mileage usually decreases when going over 60 miles per hour (mph).
Avoid aggressive driving. Sudden stops and starts and rapid acceleration decrease your vehicle’s miles per gallon (mpg).
Check the condition of the gas cap. Approximately 17 percent of vehicles on the road have loose, damaged or missing gas caps, causing 147 million gallons of gas to vaporize every year.
Don’t idle your vehicle and go inside instead of waiting in long lines at the drive-through window to avoid wasting gas.
“We can’t control the price of gas, but we can control how we drive our vehicles, and how much gas we use,” said Rich White, executive director, Car Care Council.
To schedule an appointment with Atlantic Car Care, Call 910-794-1390 – email email@example.com or make a comment
Your Audi deserves nothing but the best, and Atlantic Car Care recently added Randall White to our team of certified trained automotive technicians. Randall brings factory Audi and VW training to our team. Trust only the experts to maintain and service your Audi vehicle. Our technicians are required to attend rigorous training sessions, which enables them to employ the latest service procedures and the most sophisticated technologies. Plus we’ve invested in the latest diagnostic tools. No one is better equipped to maintain and service your Audi.
This list is just one of several offered by the manufacturer of your vehicle, and it may or may not match the one offered by your local shop. It is important to make sure you are comparing the correct services when comparing estimates.
Atlantic Car Care has become, Wilmington’s, trusted experts in the diagnosis, service and maintenance of transmissions. Call Atlantic Car Care before starting any auto repair or transmission service, we will perform our extensive auto insection and scan diagnosis on your transmission.
Most transmission problem can be avoid with proper maintenance. Using state-of-the-art equipment, one of specially trained technicians will:
•Use a safe and effective cleanerto dissolveand suspend the varnish and gums in the transmission, valve body, torque converter, transmission pan, transmission filter, transmission lines and transmission coolers.
•Flush the entire transmission removing all of the old trans-mission fluid and refilling with synthenic transmission fluid
•Change transmission filters and pan gaskets
•Check the level and condition of your transmission fluid
•Check the level and condition of transfer case and differential fluid, where applicable
•Install BG Universal Synthetic ATF, the superior choice to use in all passenger and commercial automatic transmissions. It provides excellent protection of gears and offers superior thermal stability, anti-wear protection, outstanding oxidative stability, foam resistance and corrosion control, exceptional low temperature fluidity, and excellent shear stability to ensure a long service life.
•BG ATC Plus enhances properties of both new and used automatic transmission fluid. It improves fluid oxidation stability, thereby prolonging fluid life and the life of the transmission. It prevents leaks by conditioning hardened seals—keeping them soft and pliable. BG ATC Plus helps control transmission shudder‚ retards formation of sludge and varnish deposits and prevents foaming.
Fixing your transmission problem right, starts with diagnosing your problem right! We have the technology and expert diagnosticians to pin-point the root of your transmission problems so we only repair what needs fixing and nothing more. Over half of the time, we’ll discover your transmission only requires a minor repair.
In the event a major repair is necessary we will offer many solutions, starting with rebuilding or repairing the transmission or we may offer to replace your vehicles transmission with a remanufacture or used unit.